NANKANA SAHIB — The streets of Nankana Sahib gleamed under the November sun, lined with banners and marigold decorations as thousands of Sikh pilgrims arrived to mark the 556th birth anniversary of Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism. The air carried a mix of devotion and nostalgia and, for many, a sense of unexpected warmth.
This year’s pilgrimage holds special significance. It is the first major visit from Indian Sikhs since deadly border clashes in May, which killed more than 70 people and led to the closure of the land route between Pakistan and India. Yet, despite those tensions, pilgrims described their welcome as overwhelmingly kind.
“We were worried about what the atmosphere might be like in Pakistan,” said 46-year-old Inderjit Kaur from Amritsar. “But it has been lovely. The people here have treated us like family.”
Officials estimated that nearly 40,000 devotees gathered at Gurdwara Janam Asthan, the sacred birthplace of Guru Nanak. Inside the shrine complex, walls draped in flowers and the sound of hymns created an atmosphere of serenity. Men and women prayed together, many bowing deeply or taking ritual dips in the holy pond.
“There is no fear here,” said Harjinder Pal Singh, a retired banker from Delhi. “The devotion, the arrangements everything feels just like home. It’s as if there is no border between us.”
Outside the shrine, that sentiment was reflected in the smiles and embraces exchanged between Sikhs from both countries. Young Muslims and Hindus joined in the celebrations, dancing to the beat of the traditional dhol drum.
“There’s only a border dividing us not our hearts,” Harjinder added with a smile.
Amid the celebrations, one emotional reunion stood out. Ninety-year-old Muhammad Bashir, a Muslim resident of Nankana Sahib, waited anxiously at the shrine gates to meet Sharda Singh, the son of his late father’s Sikh friend. The two men’s families were separated during Partition in 1947, but their fathers had maintained contact through letters for decades.
When Singh finally appeared, the two men embraced tightly, their eyes welling up with tears.
“I thought I would die without meeting you,” Bashir said, his voice trembling. “Now I can go in peace.”
Singh could barely speak through his tears. “It feels as if we’ve reunited after a lifetime,” he said. “The love and respect we’ve received in Pakistan are beyond words. It’s the people who want peace not the politics that divide us.”
Throughout the day, the sounds of prayers mixed with the aroma of freshly cooked langar. Volunteers prepared massive pots of rice, lentils, and sweets, serving everyone Sikh, Muslim, Hindu without distinction. As the procession moved through the streets, Muslim residents showered rose petals from balconies, while an aircraft circled overhead releasing more petals into the sky.
“We are in love with this sacred land,” said Giani Kuldeep Singh, a pilgrim from Punjab, India. “This is where our Guru was born. Our message is one of peace, love, and brotherhood.”
Pakistan’s Minister for Religious Affairs, Sardar Muhammad Yousaf, addressed the crowd, saying, “Religion is individual, but humanity is shared. Our doors will always remain open for our Sikh brothers and sisters.”
The celebrations will continue through November, with major events planned in Kartarpur, where Guru Nanak is buried. The Kartarpur Corridor opened in 2019 to allow visa-free pilgrimage remains closed from the Indian side since May, but many here remain hopeful that it will reopen soon.
